Monthly Archives: March 2013
Clothing from the Killing Fields- notice the jaw bone on top of the case
The Killing Fields
Never in my life would I have thought I would see anything like this. I was born in January of 1972. Three years later in Cambodia- genocide was in full force. In school (relatively small town in Wisconsin) we learned about Hitler and Germany. I never learned about Cambodia. The horror in Cambodia was actually an offshoot of the Vietnam War. The US decided to heavily bomb Cambodia in a last ditch effort to assert power and drive out any Vietcong that may be hiding there. What it actually did was pave the way for the Khmer Rouge (guerrilla soldiers) to gain control of parts of the country. The bombing destroyed much of Phnom Penh. So much so, that the Khmer Rouge came in looking like saviors and then quickly turned to tyrants. They set up work camps where literally worked people to death. Anyone could be sent to a camp – there were even reports that people with soft hands were targets. Any member of the Khmer Rouge could label someone as an “enemy of the revolution” and they would be sentenced to death.
The Khmer Rouge said that it was Year Zero. All history, art, family ties – anything from the past was eradicated. There was even no smiling. Your job was to work for the Khmer Rouge so they could grow in power. That was it. The “mastermind” (power hungry, insecure megalomaniac) behind the plans was a man named Pol Pot. He targeted young men to get involved in the movement, then used fear to keep people in line. If you didn’t follow a rule- you would die.
If a person didn’t die from being worked, walked or starved to death, they were blindfolded then taken in big trucks to the killing fields. The killing fields were exactly that- fields where they killed people then shoved them into mass graves. The pictures we took here can not begin to describe the experience. An excellent guided walking tour (via a headset) takes you around the compound.
This happened so recently (within the last 38 years) and there are so many bodies buried there that every time there is a rain, more bones and clothing are unearthed. You are literally walking on jaw bones and spines. What looks like an old rag is someone’s shirt or pants. There is a large tree where they would hold small children and babies by the ankles and beat them to death in front of their mothers. They killed everyone so no one would seek revenge in the future.

One picture is of Maddux looking at one of the mass graves. In another I am pointing at old clothing and what appears to be a backbone. You can make out teeth in the other photo. Unbelievable!
This is the monk who showed us the location of the eyebrow Buddha
Legend has it that one of Buddha’s eyebrow hairs is housed here
We have been to a temple where Buddha’s tooth is on display. We’ve also been to the Golden Rock Pagoda where Buddha’s hair supposedly keeps the rock from falling off the mountain. We’ve seen a footprint of his (which was questionable) and the Buddha in this picture is said to hold one of his eyebrows. I’m wondering what other parts of him we’ll come across.
We walked around and couldn’t find the temple. A monk walking toward us said it was right behind us. There were two women at the front gate who said the temple was closed, but she went to talk to a man. The man in this picture unlocked a little door for us, showed us the eyebrow Buddha and performed a blessing just for us. He blessed some water and spritzed it on us with a small bundle of sticks. Then he did some chanting while rubbing the sticks on each of our hands- afterwards, we rubbed it on our faces. We burned incense and placed it in the sand. It was really cool.
Some funny stories and observations
~When I was younger I admit I used to watch beauty pageants on tv. I would even pretend I was a contestant (my family humored me and let me parade around the family room. Thanks, guys!) One year, I remember one of the women saying, “My name is So and So and my motto is I’ll never try quitting and I’ll never quit trying.” It stuck in my head. Anyways, we were playing UNO one day and I misspoke and said “I’ll never try winning and I’ll….” A big joke in this family is that I am not competitive (I am- it just comes out sporadically.) Everyone said “You’re right. You never try winning- that’s why you lose all the time.” Wow! What a supportive family I have. hee
~Some women have super long toe nails. One woman’s were curling over her toes!
~In Phnom Penh, we saw guys with rickshaws carrying huge blocks of ice, then stopping at street vendors to saw ice off or leave a chunk for the storekeeper’s coolers.
~We bought a gong in Hoi An. Maddux and I were on a bike ride when he started talking about how cool it will be when we hang a big “dong” up in our house. I told him that it is called a gong, not a dong. He asked what a dong was. I said that’s a silly name for a weiner. He said, “Oh my gosh! How many different names ARE there for a weiner!?” He is funny.
~A policeman followed Jesse around asking him if he wanted to buy fake badges. Everyone is trying to make a buck!
~A big thing in some parts of Southeast Asia are couples taking elaborate wedding photos. We’re talking full on photo shoots in the jungle, in a cave, holding teddy bears that are kissing each other. It’s really interesting. Some of the dresses look like they’re straight out of the 80s. It’s funny because you’re walking around seeing extremely poor people, then around the corner there is a woman in a big hoop dress with a huge fancy lace umbrella and a teddy bear that is all dressed up.
~In the last two days we have traveled over 14 hours (in total) on a bus. That wasn’t bad at all- the most challenging part for me was being forced to watch hours of a Vietnamese high school’s prom. The bus guy cranked the volume just in case we weren’t all paying attention. All fast dances were done with their hands- they kind of stayed in one place or stepped back and forth a few times. In all my life, I have never been so happy to see Asian Karaoke videos when they came on the screen!
How do you say?…
Here are some phrases we’ve learned while on our adventure (I have written them out phonetically):
Mmm goy- thank you in Cantonese
Kopen kah- thank you for a woman in Thai
Kopen krop- thank you for a man in Thai
Sawa-dee kah- hello in Thai for a woman
Sawa-dee-krop- hello in Thai for a man
Khawp ji- thank you in Laos
Jez oo bay- thank you in Burmese
Mingalabah- hello in Burmese
Gawm ern- thank you in Vietnamese
Sin jow- hello in Vietnamese
Aw koon- thank you in Cambodian





















